Combine the gorgeous glacial peaks and verdant green valleys of North Western Italy, an Austrian sense of order and a place where Italian, German and the local Ladin language are used interchangeably, then add local traditions, gastronomy, comfort and culture and you’ll have a good idea of what Alta Badia in Corvara, and the neighbouring Val Gardena are like.
I fell in love with the area on a press trip years ago. Back then, I had been led to expect that my pre-cancer strength would return, so didn’t mind struggling with my cycling. Getting stuck up the climbing wall I had scaled to take better photos was just a giggle.
Since then I’ve wanted to return to Alta Badia and Val Gardena in the Dolomites, walk the beautiful mountains, join the annual cycling marathon and stay at the gorgeous Hotel La Perla. My column with Disability Review Magazine gave me the opportunity to do the first two, but with my ME, undiagnosed extras and current lack of fitness the marathon felt like too big a risk.
Press trips aren’t holidays. They’re hard-won hard work, and cram everything from a normal ten day break into two or three. I love the pressure of them, the access, insights and experiences. I find chasing stories addictive, and the adrenaline I get from the process is a perfect fuel for the hyperfocus aspects of my ADHD. But, there’s no time to be ill, have time off or a lie-in, no time to manage hidden disabilities, and I worry that asking for more time would leave me with no trip at all. Weights help me manage my conditions so I always ask for gym access although the enquiry is usually ignored. Chronic fatigue episodes occasionally happen while I’m travelling, but provided I stay hydrated and get early nights, I can usually manage. I then crash hard –worse without weight training – when I’m back.
I had 2 full days (and 3 nights) at Hotel Marmolada. It’s a lovely place with traditional Alpine décor, wellness centre, spa, concierge service, exquisite cuisine, the famous Ladin hospitality and exceedingly friendly staff. On arrival I was thrilled to chat with its female founder who told me that she had started the hotel with her husband. One day he went skiing, and he never came back.
May you never discover that the phrase ‘paralysing loss’ is not metaphorical. The love of my life was one of 28 people I lost over four years starting with the pandemic. The lovely Sonja’s enduring love of a man she lost years ago re-triggered my paralysis. My (ADHD related) RSD made it worse. I didn’t leave my room for a day.
I love writing, pitching stories, meeting people and travelling. While a conventional contract at the level of intellectual engagement, seniority and physicality that would fulfil me would be a challenge, I can be super-productive as a freelance by choosing my hours and approach. But freelance travel writing isn’t even easy for the able-bodied. Rates of pay haven’t changed since the ‘80s, and appreciation of what we do is muddied by AI, influencers, bloggers, podcasters and people who write for free. People in the sector are more understanding about disabilities these days, than when I started. Travel is becoming more inclusive. Despite everyone’s best intentions, nothing has changed for me.
I still want to go back.
Back for wandering walks on wide accessible pathways, for crystal air and fresh bright sun, for friendly locals and interesting tourists, for hiking and cycling (some of which is accessible) and the skiing (regular and adaptive). For the blend of tradition and modernity, the centuries-old farmhouses, traditional crafts, churches, contemporary architecture, fusion and gourmet food, for the shopping and supermarkets selling cannabis chocolate. For the fascinating Italian-German-Ladin language mash-up. For the innovative wine cellars of La Perla (and hopefully a stay there), the opportunity to spot classic cars, and one day – hopefully -the Maratona de Dolomites itself.
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